Last Day in Dharamsala

And its a wrap everyone. I'm officially leaving the wonderful Tibetan refugee community nestled in the Himalayans :( However, I will be embarking on an extremely busy trip throughout India within the next week and I'm anticipating the adventure. To top things off I just briefed myself a bit more on Ela Bhatt (founder of SEWA) and found out that she is best friends with Nelson Mandela, serves on the "The Elders" with Muhummad Yunus, Archbishop Tutu, and Jimmy Carter..just to name a few, AND received her doctorates from Harvard. Life just got REAL.

Ahhhh....don't have time to write I'm doing last minute briefing. Send good vibes please. Nervous.

Amritsar and Pakistan Border

I'm Back in Dharamsala! This weekend was nothing short of epic and I will hold all the memories very close to my heart.

On Friday evening I spent the nigh at Khadija's hostel which was located on top of a monastery. We spied on the young monks in the courtyard for an hour while they playfully debated and chanted. Around 10pm we attempted to fall asleep and get some rest for our long journey but miserably failed and talked/vented about life and how we arrived in Dharamsala until 4:15am, when Allison came knocking on our door asking if we were ready to leave. This is how the adventure began, no sleep and only peanut butter sandwhiches fueling our youthful spirits.

We finally arrived in Amritsar around 10:30am and took a tuk tuk to the Golden Temple. Words can't begin to describe how beautiful and breathtaking the entire cite was, let alone the Temple itself. If you click the following link you will be directed to an photo album I made of Amritsar on facebook:: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=194454&id=530344024&l=4d57f44073.

There are also some pictures of the Indian/Pakistani border ceremony (yes I was at the Pakistani border). The ceremony was intended to build good relations between the two countries, however it seemed as though both sides attempted to out-due eachother with nationalistic marches, chants, and music. BUT the Indian women saved the performance by running barefoot to the border with Indian flags swaying in heat (not wind). There was also a portion where all the women went to the center of the stage and danced so freely and carelessly. My eyes were hypnotized with the vibrant colors of saris and smiles that accompanied them....so I snuck past the Indian guards with Allison and joined the festivities. We danced in the 100degree weather for 45 minutes then were escorted back to our tourist seats. At the conclusion of the ceremony both Pakistan and India opened its closed gates and lowered their nation's flags. This action was intended to be a symbol of respect and peace between both states but this is debatable.

That night we slept in the Golden Temple and it was absolutely stunning. The Temple NEVER sleeps and neither does its devoted followers. It was also amazing to wake up in the morning and wash with the Indian women under the sun.

Sorry can't go into further detail...this experience was simply overwhelming and I'm still digesting thee adventure, PLUS I have limited internet access. Peace :)

Trip to the Herbal Woman

Today I went to the Tibetan Doctor and was diagnosed with food/water poisoning AND jaundice. Lovely. Now I'm hooked up with Tibetan herbal medicine and 1 "precious pill" from His Holiness. The direct orders from the doctor were to take the "precious pill" on Sunday when it's a full moon so it can take its full effect. Apparently, the herbs, crystals, and minerals are picked in the Manali mountains by a select few Tibetan medical students once a year. The ingredients are then taken to His Holiness and made into precious pills in front of him. He washes and blesses them then they are digested by the lucky ones, such as myself. I'm excited for the vivid dreams :)

yay for traveling stories. ahhhhh Amritsar in less than 24 hours!!!!!!!!

Monks are EVERYWHERE

Last night felt like a typical school day at CAL. I stayed up late writing furiously with nothing but adrenaline and pressure keeping my eyelids from closing. I finally curled into my warm and wonderful bed around midnight (which is extremely late here in Dharamshala), excited for vivid dreams and rejuvenating slumber. HOWEVER, at 4am I was awoken by Ama-la and Gina rushing in my room turning on my lights, slamming cuppards (looking for God knows what), and opening the refrigerator (which filled the room with the smell of raw meat and I nearly puked). Then the dogs came in and tried to hide under my bed but Gina ran after them with a broom shooing them out. Also, I don't know if this was part of my dream of if I was actually talking to Gina, but I THINK she told me that Pa-La was performing some type of Buddhist ritual and I needed to get up, but my brain told me to go back to sleep...so I did. When I finally woke up around 8am I felt like there was something different about the house especially since it was silent. I was also greeted with droplets of butter on the floor and few smeared on my belongings by the fridge. This was by no mistake the doing of Ama-La who is severely senile and uncoordinated.

In efforts of de-stressing from the night before, I went for a run and returned home for a short yoga session. While in the midst of my bridge I opened my eyes and saw a monk standing two feet in front of me just staring. Obviously I was startled and ungracefully fell out of the posture. He just laughed and proceeded to the kitchen with a teapot. Gina informed me that Pa-La requested four monks to come and pray at the house for a full day in hopes of warding off all illnesses experienced by those living in the house. To have a monk in your home is an honor and explains why Ama-La and Gina were frantically running inside and out of my room that morning trying to prepare breakfast for the holy men. As I got ready for work I just listened to the "oms" and ringing of the gong coming from the monks in the temple upstairs.

There is truly no place like Dharamsala.

Oh...and ironically SEWA was in the new york Times today! An Indian woman once labeled as an "untouchable" is now selling her textiles in Manhattan for $6000. Check out her story: http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/22/fashion/22Gimlet.html?_r=1

(everything happens for a reason)

Leaving for Amritsar tomorrow at 4am. I think I will be there until Sunday or Monday (or whenever we feel the need to return)....SO EXCITED! Can't wait to tell you all about my journey when I return. Sending love.

Truth Corner

I'm currently crafting TWA's official microfinance proposal that will be presented to SEWA's president Ella Bahat, whom I might add is India's leading woman in microfinance. Intimidating much? (no not at all....ahhh). She will be critquing the proposed model and offering up suggestions for a successful MFI, however since I'm the only person in TWA who knows anything about anything when it comes to microfinance, it's pretty much only my ideas and opinions that will be reviewed. To be completely honest, before coming to Dharamsala I thought I was simply going to observe a microfinance organization and decide if I was in favor or against the concept of microfinance. Since an MFI encourages capitalism and commercialization--rather than preservation-- of a culture (i.e. being taught how to make chile in order to simply sell it--making it a chore, a daily activity to produce an income rather than a time to share with your family or understand one's culture), I was leaning more towards hell NO. Yes, I know it's an idealistic/Berkeley perspective but I still stand firm on my stance and will defend it in a heartbeat (I think..). However, here I am now, crafting an official proposal in FAVOR of microfinance and swallowing my ideals. But I don't feel too bad...this will after all help Tibetan women refugees become economically independent in a patriarchal society. Viva la vulva.

It's going to be a longggggg night. Proposal is due tomorrow.

sending all my love to you all.

Oh Bagstsu

Last night a couple of the interns and I went to Bagstsu for dinner. Let me provide a mental image of this oasis. When first entering the Isralei/Mexican/Indian/American restaurant, you notice that it’s not your traditional Dharamsala restaurant where the monks roam. Instead, the demographic consists of Isralei’s, hippies, and us (TWA interns), so it somewhat felt like home (San Francisco/Berkeley) and I got all warm and fuzzy inside. You take off your shoes before entering the lounge area and plop down on the comfy cushions near the low tables. The lighting is dim, windows wide open and there is a small movie screen showing 7 pounds (with Will Smith) on the wall. Everyone seems to be in their individual worlds, playing chess/checkers, enjoying life and doing things considered illegal in the states. Ha. Then the menu comes and you’re overwhelmed by all the options. I had the hummus and fruit which was AMAZING and fresh. However as soon as my stomach began to digest the deliciousness, the aches and nausea began to kick in again. At that moment I came to terms with the fact that there is a living and angry parasite in my belly causing a raucous. As a result I’m fasting the entire day to minimize the aches/pains and will go the Tibetan “miracle doctor” tomorrow. He’s world renown for curing any ailments with natural remedies and served under His Holiness for many many years.

If anyone wants natural medicine let me know :)

In a Nutshell

There is A LOT to talk about. This past week I've been on a mission to squeeze in every possible activity Dharamshala has to offer! I've been to an Evangelical church service (random I know), lower Dharamshala, walked 4.5 miles through the Himalayans, ate a veg "momo" from a street vendor, went to a Sikh temple (even had to wear a veil to cover my head), digested Tibetan medicine blessed/washed by His Holiness (that caused some very vivid dreams), and now booking my bus ticket for a weekend in Amritsar. The last task is something that I'm looking forward to since it's the home to Holiest shrine of Sikhism-- the Golden Temple. Playing second to the Taj Mahal in tourist attractions, the Golden Temple has thousands of visitors 24hours a day AND offers FREE lodging in the temple for tourists. Thank goodness I will not be making this journey alone, I will have the wonderful company of two other well-experienced AND FEMALE travelers from New York. So I'm safe...no worries everyone :)

I would also like to share a special moment that I had with Pa-La this morning. As many of you know, I've become a BIG fan of red lipstick recently (don't know why), and in efforts of satisfying my female vanity and urge to feel "pretty", I lightly dabbed on the red and headed for the office. Ironically, I bumped into Pa-La on my way down the mountain towards work. Although we had said our goodbyes and hugged at the house only moments earlier, we embraced again and he reached for my hand and firmly held it. In the Tibetan culture, it is a sign of endearment and love towards a family member to walk hand in hand in public. So Pa-La walked an "Indian-lookalike girl" with red lipstick all the way to her work, holding her hand, and with a HUGE grin on his face. This scene was probably the first that anyone has ever encountered in Dharamshala, since Tibetans and Indians don't really get along. But Pa-La is well known/respected within the community, therefore we received no dark stares or words. We just walked together and enjoyed each others company.

Pic of the Golden Temple:

P.S.

Also just found out that the city I'm traveling with Woebum to within the next week --Azhemdabad-- is the birthplace of the Great Mohandas Gandhi. God does work in mysterious ways and everything DOES happen for a reason.

(I'm currently overflowing with joy right now-- Ghandi was the reason I entertained the thought of vegetarianism at the age of 8 and veganism at 21)